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From Hoi Ann we back-tracked to Danang and took a day train to Nha Trang, Vietnam's answer to Bali (but still a lot nicer at the moment if you don't care for touts).  This was the only thing that really annoyed us about the itinerary, as we effectively wasted a day on a boring train, when if we had taken a bus we could have gone more directly to Whale Island (which was 1.5 hours North of Nha Trang anyway) and seen more along the way.  So, we arrived late in the evening, went to bed, and were on a bus again early the next morning.

Well, it was worth detouring to spend a couple of days on Whale Island.  It's one of Vietnam's first Eco Resorts and its French owners are working to preserve the local marine life and create a special environment.  Typical of many Pacific Island resorts it features individual burees (fairly basic but with ensuite) and a central area with open air bar and restaurant.  Rather pleasant, but unfortunately the local coral was disappointing due to over fishing, an infestation of crown of thorns starfish and algae build up (perhaps due to fertiliser run off).  It was also extremely hot, and the water in the shallows was like a bath.

Further out to sea, when Dave went scuba diving, the situation was better with some beautiful delicate corals, splendid lion fish, a species of clown fish (aka Nemo) and the gorgeous diamond shaped ones with the yellow and black colouring.  But no fish larger than about 30cm.  

Dave was buddied on the dive with Kenny, a Vietnam Vet who was back for the first time on a healing tour.  It was refreshing to have a conversation with an American who had some intelligent criticism of his country's foreign policy and political situation.  He was also highly positive about his experiences in Vietnam, saying that the locals he'd talked to were not only grateful for his service in their country but also appreciated the sheer bravery of the people on both sides who served in that ghastly conflict.

Whale Island was significant for some of our fellow travellers: Flora turned 19 (cake and all), and as previously mentioned Marcus proposed (successfully) to Katie.  The impressive thing is that he even had the ring ready.  Quan, Aussi Kim and the two of us were also the only ones game to do the (non trivial) walk around the island.

We also had a Discovery Channel moment when one of the local lizards became amorous with the female seen below.

Back in Nha Trang after an otherwise relaxing break from our fairly fast-paced itinerary, we had time for a wander along the beach (on a Sunday afternoon jam packed with local families on their day off) and a meal at a cheap and cheerful place called Red Star.  Then it was back to the train station for our final overnight train to Ho Chi Minh City (aka Saigon).